lundi 18 décembre 2017

Weathering Tutorial Part 5: Mud

The last chapter on how to weather a Panther tank: The mud effects


For the mud effects, you can use 2 types of products:

- Acrylics paint with earth pigments.
- Enamel weathering products like AK Interactive with earth pigments.

Chipping fluid

PVA Glue or water based varnish.

You can replace the earth pigments by plaster of Paris.

I'm making my own pigments using different kind of earth that I'm collecting here and there.

I will explain later on a specific tutorial how I'm making them.

For the wet effect, again you can go for wet effect product or you can also use gloss varnish.

For the acrylics, I'm using Tamiya. I'm making a mix of:

XF-2 Matt White, XF-60 Dark Yellow, XF-52 Flat Earth, XF-64 Red Brown and XF-1 Flat Black. 




For the enamels, I recommend AK Interactive enamels as they are easy to use, you know what the final colour will be:

AK-017 Earth Effect, AK-080 Summer Kursk Earth, AK-010 Fresh Mud.




I start by applying varnish on the hull and the wheels:



Before it's dry I'm putting the pigments:



Next step, on the side of the hull, I'm applying chipping fluid, to avoid any unwanted drop on the upper hull, I'm using some paper to mask it:



To create the mud, I’m mixing home made earth pigments with some paint in a plastic shot glass. If the mixture is too thin, add some more pigments. It must have the same consistency as real mud.



For the mud, always remember to start by the dry mud (the clearest tone) this dry mud must cover more space than the others.

I’m using an old brush, airbrush and toothpick to create the splashes in a very easy way .

Always try first in a piece of paper or the bottom side of the model until you have the desire effect as your bush will be full of mud. You will avoid unwanted (too) big splashes.



The next layer is made with dark earth tone:



I let it dry for few minutes before I’m making the streaking mud using a brush wetted with water (to activate the chipping fluid or hairspray).
Here you can see the result once the streaking mud is done of the side of this Panther.
For the wet effect, you can use gloss varnish or wet effect fluid. Use it with parsimony always keeping in mind a real tank as reference.


You can now repeat the process on the other side, front and rear:



You can also place some muddy foot prints on your tank due to the crew climbing on it with their boots full of mud.




jeudi 7 décembre 2017

How to make rust effect tutorial 2: Peeling rust

Next chapter on this tutorial about rust:

How to create peeling rust:



What you will need for this:

- Various rust tones with acrylic paint. They have to be MATT
- Your model paint colour must be SATIN
- Maskol
- An old brush to apply the Maskol

First of all, I'm applying layers of rust tones with acrylic paint.



Let's take this Tiger 1 model as exemple:



Here you can see I painted a first layer of rust tone, on the side (the darker area) as well as in front of the grill, I applied Maskol with an old brush where I want to get the peeling effect on the paint.

Once it is dry (the Maskol must me transparent) I'm applying a coat of base colour on top of the it. Depending on the effect you want to achieve, you can superpose various layers of paint to represent the primer colour then your model colours. 


  

I let this coat of paint dry completely.

On this model, I wanted to represent too a burned effect on the paint so I putted chipping fluid followed by a layer of black. 

To know more about the burned out effect please check the Burned Out Tutorial. 



Now, with the help of a toothpick, we will lift some parts on the Maskol where we want to have the peeling effect.




On the next step you can use rust wash and pigments to get the result you are looking for.

This technique works on flat, inclined or vertical surfaces.

Another exemple on the side of the turret:



As you can see it isn't hard to get the aspect of the paint peeling due to rust of heat.

Now it is your time to try it, good work folks!

Rust effect tutorial 1: Rust

In the case of the M41, I paint it first with various Tamiya acrylics to get the rust tones:
XF-64 Red brown, XF-68 NATO Brown, XF-10 Flat Brown, XF-9 Hull Red, XF-7 Flat Red, X-6 Orange, X-24 Clear Yellow and XF-1 Flat Black.
For better details you can paint some area with a sponge.
Always remember where you putted the areas you want to show when you will be removing the camo paint.

Once it is dry, I used the Chipping effect from AK Interactive, you can also use the same product from Ammo or Vallejo. If you don't have it you can use hair spay.
If you are using hair spray you must do first a test on an old platic kit of sheet of plastic as some hair spay can react with the paint.
I'm covering the areas I want the paint to be removed with the Chipping liquid, you can apply it with an hairbrush or a brush. Once you can see it is dry, you must apply the camo or paint layer including the mapping directly.
In the case of this M41, left outside for many years, I used various Tamiya acrylics green tones as:
XF-5 Flat Green, XF-67 NATO Green, XF-71 Cockpit Green and XF-2 White.

Once you can see it is dry, you can start to work on the chipping effect, using water and a brush. Your brush must be wetted and not flooded with water. Apply water on the surface, wait a little bit and brush the surface from top to bottom. You can also use a toothpick or a thin pin for other kind of chips.

The areas more damages or more worn must have more chips than other areas.
On the next step, I'm using various enamel washes and grime.
If I'm using enamels and not acrylics or water based products is simple to understand, the base is acrylic, if I'm working with acrylics it won't react the same way, also the acrylics have a faster driying time than the enamels.
You can use already prepared washes or you can do them your self with enamel colours and thinner.
Finaly I'm putting some rust tone pigments (light, medium and deep) with and old brush on some areas.
If you want to fix the pigments, you can use diluted mat varnish.

The final result:

That's it for this one, if you have any question just ask.
Don't forget if you have an old model try it first on it.
Remember less is more, don’t over do the effect or you can ruin your model.